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  • 1998 V70R demarre pas

    Hey guys, I have a bit of a problem. I just acquired a 1998 V70R last week and it was fine until Sunday afternoon. The car currently cranks and sometimes catches a bit but never actually runs or idles. This is the sequence of events leading up to today:

    - When I got the car, I noticed a hesitation when accelerating lightly. When accelerating lightly around ~2300 in 3rd/4th to get on the highway, the engine would cut out, the revs would drop, then it would pick back up. This would keep on repeating itself until you let off the accelerator and re-applied throttle and it would accelerate smoothly after that.

    - The idle would also hunt up and down below 1000rpms and stalled on me once while reversing. I cranked it again and it started right up and stayed running until Sunday.

    - Sunday, I went to get parts for the car and while pulling into a parking lot, so I slow down to turn and the RPMs drop to idle. I try to accelerate and the engine doesn't want to for about 3-5 seconds and then it did....for about 2 seconds and then it just stumbled and stalled out. It would start right up and just stumble and stall out again. By tapping the IAC, it helped a bit once but then nothing changed after that.

    - I then proceeded to change the Cam Position Sensor to no change. It would start up and then die. I then changed the IAC. Same story, as it would start up and die again or just fail to start. I then changed the MAF. It idled a bit better but still no change as it would stumble and die or just fail to start. I also tried another coil to no avail. I unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor and it just refused to start.

    - I had the car towed home and after getting it off the flatbed, it started right up and idled like nothing happened. Then I proceeded to work it by taking apart the intercooler hoses and found that the rubber elbow going to the throttle body had ripped on the backside. I cobbled something together to replace it while keeping the IAC hooked up and there's no vacuum leak as far as the intercooler hoses are concerned. However I can still hear a leak somewhere and spraying brake cleaner on the hoses doesn't change the idle when it actually runs.

    - I then removed the fuel pump relay and checked it with a 12V source and it clicks like it should. I can also hear the pump priming when the key is in position II. When I push the nipple on the fuel rail, gas does gush out so I doubt it's a fuel problem. I still need to check if I'm actually getting enough pressure. If I'm not mistaken I should be seeing 42PSI?

    - I also cleaned the throttle body to no avail.

    - I also jumpered positions 1 and 3 on the relay board and checked the fuse for current draw and it is ~4-5 amps like it should be. This for me pretty much rules out a fuel delivery problem.

    - The only thing I haven't done yet is pull the plugs but I honestly doubt they're a problem since they were replaced less than 3000kms ago, but I'll pull them to make sure if they're wet or not. The previous owner had the plugs/Cap/Rotor replaced and they all look new. However the wires haven't been changed so that might be a possible problem source so I'll have to individually test each wire to see if there's spark.

    - I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor last, but the battery is pretty much flat from trying to start it so many times so I haven't been able to see if that's changed anything yet or not. The tachometer is always working so I honestly doubt that the Crankshaft Position Sensor will change anything.

    - When it does actually idle, and you give it gas, it'll stall out right away. This leads my friends and I to think that my intake manifold is leaking....but I did spray brake fluid around there and the idle doesn't improve or change at all.

    - When the car was running fine, off the throttle on the highway I'd see 20" of vacuum and at idle it'd be ~12". Also, I don't ever see any more than 3psi of boost with the actuator rod cranked all the way down. I checked my Boost Control Solenoid and from the part number I can gather from it, it appears to be off an S40...does that affect it in any way?

    As of now, I'm at a loss as to what the potential source of the problem is as it should crank and start right up. This is really frustrating as I just got the car and it should be my daily driver so any help with this will be greatly appreciated! Whew, that was long.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    salut

    Hi,

    Take a note that I'm not a master but;

    I suggest to you to look around the fuel pump, if you have a problem when your car is hot also no problem when it's cold, it's big possibility that your fuel pump is at the end of there working life.

    If we considere the age of your Volvo it's possible and not the first time we ear problem about that

    Good luck

    Commentaire


    • #3
      Kearmith, faudrait que j'droppe la suspension au complet en arriere pour la faire vu que c'est une R pi c'est AWD....par contre, j'ai toujours du gaz dans le rail alors j'comprends pas. En plus, j'entends la pompe en marche quand elle se prime quand j'met le contact en position II...

      Commentaire


      • #4
        hi
        when i got my 850 awd it was a little sluggish, i changed the fuel filter and it helped,also a stage o check up.one of the llast thing i did was changed the cat but for me,the best fix was to change the timing belt(it was off by 2 theeth).

        also do you have any codes?


        hope some of this helps

        i have dropped my gas tank and it a good 8 hours work or for me in my back yard it was 2 weekends........

        Commentaire


        • #5
          salut

          Envoyé par faterotong Voir le message
          Kearmith, faudrait que j'droppe la suspension au complet en arriere pour la faire vu que c'est une R pi c'est AWD....par contre, j'ai toujours du gaz dans le rail alors j'comprends pas. En plus, j'entends la pompe en marche quand elle se prime quand j'met le contact en position II...
          Salut,

          Désolé mon anglais est pas super bon encore pire pour exprimer une idée de mécanique.

          Plusieurs pourront corroborer mes dire, j'ai eu un problème similaire avec une de mes ancienne voitures, celle-ci a toujours démarré à froid voir même à chaud, seulement après un certain temps elle se mettait rotter, le rpm voulait pas monter même si j'avais le pied dnas le fonds. Remplacer la pompe a essence avait réglémon .

          Sinon tes fils à bougies, rotor et autre cosson d'allumage ont été changé quand et par quoi? Des bougies de mauvaise qualité ont souvent été cité ici.

          Je connais pas le principe mécanique qui se cache deriere ça, par ce qu'une pompe c'est un moteur électrique, pourquoi il commence à mal fonctionner quand il est chaud peu pas dire, mais cela arrive.

          Un membre a traverser le calvaire de changer la sienne l'été dernier sur une S70 AWD...

          Une fois que tu as vérifier ton allumage au complet et les multiples sensor, il reste plus grand chose

          Commentaire


          • #6
            C'est bien ça que j'me disais. J'ai pas encore vérifié les bougies vu qu'il me restait pas de temps hier mais j'vais les enlever demain matin....Le cap et rotor viennent juste d'etre changés par l'ancien proprio mais cependant, le filage n'a pas été change si je ne me trompes pas.

            Le pire dans tout ça c'est que j'entends la pompe à gaz en train de primer quand j'mets le contact pi j'ai toujours du gaz dans le rail qui sort en assez fortement au rail...Alors j'men doute vraiment que ça soit la pompe, mais ça peut-être seulement parce que j'veux vraiment pas à avoir a faire cette job la...lol

            Commentaire


            • #7
              Envoyé par smokingslash Voir le message
              hi
              when i got my 850 awd it was a little sluggish, i changed the fuel filter and it helped,also a stage o check up.one of the llast thing i did was changed the cat but for me,the best fix was to change the timing belt(it was off by 2 theeth).

              also do you have any codes?


              hope some of this helps

              i have dropped my gas tank and it a good 8 hours work or for me in my back yard it was 2 weekends........
              The fuel filter was changed last summer if I'm not mistaken due to a leaking fuel line by the previous owner, so that should be fine, unless it came off and is blocking the passage of fuel, but I'm getting plenty of gas at the fuel rail, so I really really really doubt that the pump is on its way out...at least I hope.

              The timing belt was done when the engine was swapped, and the engine ran perfectly fine when it actually stayed running, so I doubt it's the timing, but I'll check anyways.

              As far as a stage 0 goes, I'm ordering a RIP kit from EST soon and also the vacuum line kit from Stylin' Motors to make sure no vacuum leak is messing with my mind.

              I'm starting to think that if I check the plugs/wires and they check out, something is wrong with the ECM. I ordered an OBD-II cable off eBay last night so hopefully it gets here within the next 2 weeks so I can check for codes. Hopefully they re-register themselves when I try cranking it over since I unhooked the battery for now to charge it since I pretty much drained it while trying to start the car.

              Commentaire


              • #8
                Check le relay de la pompe à gaz

                Commentaire


                • #9
                  Salut Serge, j'lai checke pi ca clique quand j'applique le 12V....alors d'apres-moi le system de gaz devrait etre en bon etat. Il me reste juste de verifier les bougies pi le filage.

                  J'te tiendrait au courant de tes pieces. Pour l'instant, ton cam sensor et crank sensor sont encore dessus. J'espere qu'il ne mouille pas demain vu que j'suis dans la cour. haha

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                  • #10
                    problème similaire avec un 98 xc70, elle roulait très mal par moment, elle s'éteignait j'avais l'impression qu'elle jouait avec moi. J'ai trouvé le problème après de nombreuses heures de recherche... Nettoie royalement le filage de la batterie si ce n'Es pas déja fait. les bornes de batteries, le filage qui lui arrive tout ce qui touche a la batterie bref!

                    Et j'ai fait les meme démarche que toi avant d'en arriver a ca. D'ou mes dires!

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                    • #11
                      Marek, j'aurai vraiment aimé que mon problème soit aussi simple que le tien!!! Only if! haha

                      Bon, j'ai retiré les bougies pi ils sont des Bosch FR7DC, mais le filage est encore celle stock j'imagine. J'voulais pas vérifier si j'avais du spark vu qu'il mouille dehors pi se shocker n'est pas ben ben l'fun.

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                      • #12
                        Well yesterday I bought new plug wires, changed the fuel pump relay and added gas to the tank....

                        Is it just me or do we have TWO fuel pumps? And the tank is split like a saddle right? My current theory is that one pump is bad and that half of the tank is full while the other half if empty and that side's pump is good. Could this be possible? I haven't found any documentation stating how our system works.

                        When it comes to fuel pressure, there's a very pressurized stream of gas that shoots out very strongly at the fuel rail now, so I honestly don't think that fuel is my problem now. I'm going to have my dad crank the engine while I check for spark since as of now, it seems like it wants to start, but it doesn't. The only thing I haven't checked as of now is spark...since I haven't had anybody to help me when I'm working on the car....so fingers are crossed that it starts today!

                        Commentaire


                        • #13
                          Jsais pas si cest comme les 850 AWD mais si oui, ta 2 gauge dessence avec 2 pompe a essence !

                          Un trouble des 850 AWD , les fils du gauge a essence rouillent ( le gauge arrete de marcher ) et après un certain temps, ca va faire pourrir les connection des pompe a essence !

                          Dhabitude cest remplacé par un nouveau modele avec juste un gauge et une pompe !

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                          • #14
                            D'accord Julien, j'espère que c'est comme ma theorie pi c'est seulement qu'une pompe a laché sinon, la R consomme beaucoup plus de gaz que j'aurai cru! J'avais fait le plein la journée que j'ai eu la voiture pi j'ai rien que fait ~350km d'autoroute...lol

                            Commentaire


                            • #15
                              Alright, fiddled around with it some more today....

                              Checked for spark and it does actually spark, just VERY weakly....I'm starting to wonder how old the MSD coil is on this car. I then changed plugs to NGK BKR6EGP since the old Bosch FR7DCs looked fouled to me...and it turns over and seems like it wants to fire up, but never actually does. After trying to start it, I took out the plugs and white smoke came out of the hole...I guess it's normal? Or is it something I need to be worried about?

                              Fuel pressure is no longer a problem as there is PLENTY of gas at the rail under pressure. However, when I took out the injectors, injector 1 (the one closest to the front of the engine) was missing an o-ring. All the others have a black o-ring and then a clear-ish o-ring near the tip, but the first injector was missing this o-ring. Could this be the cause of it not wanting to stay idling as there could possibly be a leak coming from there?

                              So now, the only possibilities left are: ECM and the MSD coil/wire. I'm still waiting on my OBD cable to check for codes...

                              How likely is it that the ECM is bad? I read that there was a TSB on flashing M4.4 to have easier starting and also better idling? I checked the VINs and my car isn't in the range of cars affected...so I really don't know.

                              Anybody know how to test the coil to see if it's good? I have no spares to test with...The main thing I've found is that the coil wire doesn't have that "click" feeling on the end where it goes to the distributor cap...but it's not loose, so I'm never sure if it's actually seated or not, but I can't force it in anymore...

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